Is it your controller or the game? Test your gamepad for stick drift and dead buttons in seconds.
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Everything runs in your browser, on your device — no install, nothing uploaded. This controller tester checks:
The basics
A controller tester — also called a gamepad tester or game controller checker — reads the live input from your game controller and shows you, in real time, whether every part of it works. This page is a free online controller test: plug in or pair a gamepad, press your buttons, roll the analog sticks, squeeze the triggers — and watch each input light up the moment your hardware sends it. If something on your controller feels off, the test tells you whether the fault is real or in your head.
Most "gamepad test" sites stop at raw numbers — a wall of axis values and button indices you have to interpret yourself. Controller Tester is built differently: it reads the same numbers, then answers the question you actually came with. Is my right stick drifting? Do my bumpers respond? Are my triggers analog or just on/off? You get a plain-language verdict, not homework.
Full coverage
The homepage test is the comprehensive one — it checks the whole controller at once, so you can spot any fault in a single pass:
A few inputs sit outside what any browser can read — the pair, Share and home buttons are held by the operating system, and rumble strength can't be measured (only triggered). The tester is upfront about those rather than pretending to test them.
Reading drift
No analog stick — or joystick — is mechanically perfect; even a brand-new controller rests a hair off dead-center. That's why games apply a deadzone: a small central area where movement is ignored. So a tiny resting value is not drift, and the controller test above shouldn't cry wolf over it — when a stick rests too far from center, the verdict flags it for you.
The exact reading, the PASS / DRIFTING / FAIL thresholds, what causes drift and the honest fix order all live on the dedicated stick drift test — that page is built for this one question and goes deeper than the all-in-one tester can here.
Step by step
Why this one
Compatibility
Controller Tester works with any gamepad your browser exposes through the standard Gamepad API. That covers the controllers most people are testing:
When the browser can't identify the brand, the tester defaults to a standard layout and lets you switch the labels manually — because guessing wrong is worse than asking. Use Chrome or Edge for the widest controller support.
Focused tests
Testing for a specific problem? Go straight to the focused test:
Get a clear PASS / DRIFTING / FAIL verdict on each analog stick, with the exact resting offset.
Confirm each rumble motor fires — left, right, strong and weak — step by step.
Roll each stick around its edge and read the shape it traces — a round ring, a worn flat spot, or a squared gate.
The same engine, locked to a DualSense — every shape, the analog triggers and the touchpad click, named the way Sony names them.
The same engine, locked to an Xbox pad — every button, the analog triggers, and whether yours announces impulse-trigger support.
Troubleshooting
If the tester doesn't see your controller, or an input looks wrong, run through these in order:
FAQ
The short answers. The live tool above and the sections on this page cover the rest.
Yes. The full test — buttons, sticks, triggers, bumpers and the stick-drift verdict — is free, with no sign-up.
No. It runs entirely in your browser using the Gamepad API. There's no app, extension or download.
No. Everything is read and shown locally on your device. Nothing about your controller leaves the browser.
Chrome and Edge have the broadest gamepad support. Firefox works too; Safari's support is more limited.
Yes. Xbox Series, Xbox One and Elite controllers are detected over USB and Bluetooth, with correct A/B/X/Y and LB/RB/LT/RT labels.
Yes. The DualSense and DualShock 4 are supported with PlayStation labels (Cross/Circle/Square/Triangle, L1/R1/L2/R2). Adaptive-trigger resistance and haptics aren't readable from a browser.
Yes — that's a core feature. Leave the sticks centered and the tester reports PASS, DRIFTING or FAIL plus the exact resting offset.
Browsers can command a controller to rumble but can't read back how strong the motor actually is. The tester can confirm a motor fires; it can't measure its health. The vibration test walks through each motor honestly.
Those buttons are reserved by the operating system and never reach the browser, so no web tester can read them. That's a platform limit, not a fault in your controller.
That points to software, not hardware — usually a game's input mapping or Steam's controller settings. If every input passes the test, the controller itself is working.
Browsers keep a controller hidden until it sends its first input, so press any button or nudge a stick and it should appear. Still missing? Make sure you're using a data USB cable (not charge-only), try a rear or motherboard USB port, or re-pair over Bluetooth — then refresh. Chrome and Edge detect the widest range of pads.
Another app is usually holding the controller. Steam is the common cause — Steam Input can intercept or remap the pad so the browser doesn't see its raw input. Fully close Steam, or turn off its desktop controller layout, then refresh. On a Steam Deck or ROG Ally, switch the built-in controls to gamepad mode first.
Either works, but a data USB cable gives the cleanest read — wired removes pairing drops and wireless latency from the picture. If a pad keeps disconnecting or won't be detected over Bluetooth, plug it in and test that way first, then compare wireless.
Many third-party pads power on in the wrong input mode, so Windows and browsers don't see them. Most have a model-specific power-on combo to switch modes (XInput / DInput / Switch) — check your controller's manual for the exact combo for your model, switch modes, then refresh.
Run this test with the seller present, or right after it arrives: press every face button, D-pad direction, bumper and trigger to confirm each registers, push both sticks to their full range, then let go and watch for resting drift. A couple of minutes catches dead buttons, weak triggers and stick drift before you're stuck with them.
Test it here first: if every button, trigger and stick responds, the hardware is likely fine and the problem is software — a game's input mapping, a deadzone setting, or an app like Steam holding the pad. A button that stays dark points to a worn contact; a stick that won't sit still points to drift. Testing the same pad on a second device helps confirm whether the fault is the hardware or the setup.
Push each stick slowly around its full circle and watch the readout. A healthy stick reaches the edge in every direction and traces a smooth path — look for spots where it stalls, skips, or can't hit the far edge. This checks the stick's full physical range and travel. Our controller circularity test guide shows what each trace shape means.
The comprehensive test above checks the whole pad. For a deeper, decimal-exact diagnosis with the honest fix order, use the focused tool below.
Open the stick drift test